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Save a call by reading this first, You should find your answer below...
All Dura-Seal® Product Instructions & Tech-Tip's are listed.

INDEX: Product Instructions & Tips

0. Educate Yourself, Read this first
1. Dura-Seal®
Head Gasket Sealer
2. Dura-Seal® Hi-Strength Oil Stop Leak
3. Dura-Seal® Transmission Stop Leak
4. Dura-Seal® Transmission Shutter Stop
5. Dura-Seal® Engine Block Sealer
6. Dura-Seal® Engine Hush Additive
7. Dura-Seal® Engine Smoke Stopper
8. How does Dura-Seal® compare to others
9. How to place an order
10. More "audio" information (turn your speaker "on")

--- Scroll down to find your topic ---


0. EDUCATE YOURSELF, READ THIS FIRST...

Why didn't the last sealer you tried work on your engine's head gasket?

BARZ, BLU_E DEVIL, STEAL SEEL, THERMOOGAZKET, NANO TECH, K-n-W, AND ALL OTHERS BRANDS ARE NOTHING BUT WATER-GLASS!!! *actual names of certain brands have been altered... Water-glass based sealers like these listed above have been around since the 50's when all engines were made of steel, these old fashion sealers can't flex, they can't expand and they can't contract with the engine metals.

Most vehicle engines now-a-days have aluminum cylinders heads and many even have aluminum engine blocks. All Cadillac, Subaru, Volvo, Mercedes, and BMW engines are entirely aluminum and expand about 33% more than the old steel engines during heat-up and cool-down. Those old fashion "water-glass" sealers can't flex with the new aluminum engines and simply crack-off. BARZ, BLU_E DEVIL, STEAL SEEL, THERMOOGAZKET, NANO TECH, K-n-W, AND ALL OTHERS BRANDS are simply outdated critically flawed sealers which shouldn't even be on the store shelves anymore.

Dura-Seal is the only available liquid head gasket sealer which does not use "water-glass" as a main ingredient! Since we here at Dura-Seal don't use "water-glass" our Dura-Seal Head Gasket Sealer actually stays flexible and because of that flexibility you can use our Dura-Seal with any engine that has aluminum heads or blocks (like Cadillac Northstar, Subaru, BMW, Mercedes, Audi, etc). Also, since our sealer stays flexible and cannot crack-off, most customers get over 4 years of repair life.

Did you know only Dura-Seal makes custom individual formulas for every vehicle out there? That means, we offer different formulas for different engines. Why would we invest the time to do that? It's simple, to make a better sealer we needed to have the highest success rate in the industry. In order to do that, we had to make each of our engine specific formulas cure at the exact temperature of the head gasket area of each engine, (Example: a Toyota 4Cyl. engine has a temperature range of about 295 to 320 at the cylinder's head gasket area, a Porsche 911 6Cyl. has a temperature range of about 325 to 370 at the cylinder's head gasket area).

By customizing the curing temperature of each of our sealer kits, we can assure you that our sealer will only bond and adhere to the cylinder's head gasket area of your engine.
Our Dura-Seal simply can't cure in a radiator or heater-core, it's just not hot enough there. So Dura-Seal cannot clog or gum-up other areas of your system, it can only cure at the head area based on your engines specific temperature range. That's science...

The other brands like: BARZ, BLU_E DEVIL, STEAL SEEL, THERMOOGAZKET, NANO TECH, K-n-W, AND ALL OTHERS BRANDS which use water-glass all cure at the same temperature, exactly 210 degrees.
That's the scientific curing point of water-glass! So that means if you use their water-glass based sealers it would cure in your radiator, heater-core, hoses, even the water pump because these areas can heat-up beyond 210 at any time while the enigne is running. Not only that, but, if they all cure at the same temperature, how is any one of those other sealers any better than the other. Water-glass sealers are just not very smart... Dura-Seal is simply better science, better technology and yields better results...

2. DURA-SEAL OIL STOP LEAK
OIL LEAKS Problem & Symptoms:

ENGINE OIL LEAKS/ As engines get old so do the seals! they start to shrink because they lose their silicone content. When they shrink enough, they start to allow engine oil to bypass their seals. If your vehicle is losing oil either externally (onto the ground) or internally (into the cylinder combustion center, *comes out as black/blue smoke from the exhaust) you have an engine oil leak. The Dura-Seal Hi-Strength Oil Stop Leak was initially formulated to stop leaks in rear main seals which it repairs easily, so, any other seal in the engine's oil system is even easier to repair.

Wherever the leak is coming from, the Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak will get there and cause the seal to expand! This will not harm the seal in any way! The seals simply absorb the new silicone and other ingredients in our oil stop leak and expand back to their original size thus stopping the leak.

Other auto-part store brands simply make your oil thicker, that's actually not good for the engine because it increases the compression and can burn-out the valve guide seals. The Dura-Seal Hi-Strength Oil Stop Leak does not work that way, SO THERE ARE NO NEGATIVE EFFECTS FROM USING OUR DURA-SEAL OIL STOP LEAK!!! The Dura-Seal Hi-Strength Oil Stop Leak is capable of stopping leaks which lose up to 1 to 1-1/2 quarts of oil every 200 miles!

TECH-TIP: "For normal leaks under 1/2 quart of oil or less every 100 miles, just one single 8oz. bottle of Dura-Seal Hi-Strength Oil Stop Leak FOR YOUR SIZE ENGINE will be enough. If your engine is losing more than that or have a mid to large-size tractor, you should use the 2 Bottle Special for $99.00. If you have a Semi-Truck you should use the Semi-Truck Kit which gives you six 8oz. bottles of oil stop leak. I you have a vehicle or piece of machinery or tractor with a oil capacity over 10 gallons you should also use the Semi-Truck Kit."

TECH-TIP: "If the engine was allowing water to get into the engine oil or oil into the coolant system always be sure to change the oil before you start the coolant-side repair process (always do the "coolant-side" repair first). Also after you finish the coolant-side repair and you are sure you have a full seal and your symptoms have all gone away, be sure to change your oil again (as it may have gotten contaminated again during the repair process), and then add the Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak to the new fresh oil."


TECH-TIP: "If you purchase one 8oz. 4Cyl. Bottle for a motorcycle, just use half the bottle. If you purchase a 4,6 or 8Cyl. 8oz. Bottle for your car or truck use the entire bottle, just add to your existing engine oil. If you purchase a 2 Bottle Special, add one bottle the first day then 3 days later add the second bottle for best results. If you purchase the Semi-Truck Kit add all six bottles at the same time."

DURA-SEAL OIL STOP LEAK INSTRUCTIONS/

IMPORTANT NOTES:
(1)
You CAN use Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak in any motorcycle with a wet-clutch. Since there are NO binders or adhesives in our oil stop leak, it will not effect the transmission, simply use the 4Cyl. size bottle and only use half the bottle.

(2) You CAN use Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak in any power steering system. Simply simply use the 4Cyl. size bottle and only use half the bottle.

(3) When using more than one 8oz. Bottle, always make sure theres enough room for the oil stop leak to fit into your engine so as not to overfill the engine's oil system.

STEP 1. Shake well before using. Pour contents of bottle into engine oil, oil slump or crank case. Start engine or equipment and allow to run at idle for 20 minutes. You may then shut-down engine and allow to cool for at least 20 minutes before using the vehicle. It will take up to 150 miles for the leak to stop and a complete seal is achieved.





1. DURA-SEAL HEAD GASKET SEALER (GEN. INFO)

BLOWN HEAD GASKET SYMPTOMS/ If your vehicle is losing water, allowing water to enter the oil system, or oil to enter the coolant system, running rough when first started in the morning and/or blowing white smoke and then clears-up after a few minutes then runs fine for a while then you have a head gasket problem. If your vehicle is building high pressure in the coolant system which can cause water to be pushed out of the radiator or overflow-tank and/or you see bubbles in the over-flow tank or you have an external coolant leak from the side of the cylinder head, you do in fact have a head gasket problem. If your vehicle has temperture-spikes while driving or after driving for a period of time, begins to overheat along with any of the symptoms described above then yes, you have a head gasket problem.

Vehicles can have multiple symptoms described above or just have one of the symptoms at any time, but any of the symptoms described above indicate a blown headgasket problem which needs to be repaired with our Dura-Seal® Head Gasket Repair Kit.

You simply need to order the correct Dura-Seal® Head Gasket Repair Kit. If you do not see your vehicle listed in our vehicle list you have an engine which is shared by multiple vehicle manufacturers such as; If you have a Pontiac, or Saab engine, you should use the corresponding Chevy/ GM Repair Kit. If you have a VW then use our Audi Repair Kit. If you have an Acura then use our Honda Repair Kit. If you have an Oldsmobile Aurora use our Cadillac Northstar Repair Kit. If you have a tractor be sure to use our Tractor Repair Kit. If you have a Semi-Truck use our Semi-Truck Repair Kit and so on.

TECH-TIP: "Dura-Seal Head Gasket Sealer is the only sealer on the market which does not use "water-glass" as a main ingredient so it's the only brand which can successfully be used on vehicles with aluminum cylinder heads and engine blocks. This is very important in regards to Cadillac's, Subaru's, newer model Chevy and GM engines with aluminum heads, and BMW's, Volvo's, Mercedes, Audi's and VW's with aluminum heads and blocks. This is due to the aluminum expanding and contracting. All other sealers are water-glass based and simply crack-off. Turbo-Diesel trucks and cars also require a flexible sealer such as Dura-Seal because turbo diesels have higher compression and require a sealer which can flex."

TECH-TIP: "If you engine won't start, it's probably just "Hydro-Locked" meaning theres some water/coolant sitting on top of a piston or a few pistons and the fluid is preventing the sparkplug from firing... You can get it started by removing all the sparkplugs and simply turn the "

TECH-TIP: "Complete instructions will come with your Dura-Seal® Repair Kit as well as, free telephone Tech Service (available Monday -Friday 9-5pm EST.). The repair is easy to do. If your wondering if you can do it, just remember, if you can drain your coolant system then you have enough automotive know-how to properly complete the repair process... Most Dura-Seal head gasket repairs last about 4 to 5 years before you would need to re-apply..."
DURA-SEAL®
HEAD GASKET REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
(Long in-depth Version)

IMPORTANT NOTE: (1) Do not use the "overflow-tank". (2) If the vehicle has no radiator cap, use "upper-radiator hose" to add sealers and water. (3) The repair process is more efficient with thermostat out. However, removal is not always possible on certain models so, the thermostat CAN BE left-in during the repair process, (this will be discussed later).

IMPORTANT NOTE: (2) If your engine's head gasket is allowing oil and water to mix, always be sure to order a bottle of our Oil Stop Leak. Do the coolant-side repair first, then add the Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak to the new fresh oil. If you did not purchase the oil Stop Leak call Customer Service; 706-400-0067 and order a bottle. If you don't treat both sides of the head gasket, the oil-side will begin to drip into the cylinder and cause black smoke to come from the exhaust pipe. *If your not mixing fluids disregard this tip and just move on with the coolant-side sealer kit and instructions listed below...

STEP 1. If your vehicle has a radiator cap located on the radiator, remove it now and leave off during draining, (you will use the cap opening to pour the sealers and water into the system later). If your vehicle only has an over-flow tank and does not have a radiator cap, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the "engine-side" leaving the other end still attached to the radiator, (you will use this hose to pour the sealers into your system later and re-fill the system with water later).

STEP 2. Drain coolant system, (disconnect lower radiator hose from the radiator, allowing engine block and radiator to drain, (using the drain-plug is to slow and not advised). Also, clean-out the over-flow tank at this time, simply open the cap and stick a garden hose in it and blow water into it until it's clean and full of clear water. You can remove your thermostat at this time if desired, and keep it out during the repair, be sure to reattach the housing to the engine (may require RTV silicone to maintain a water-tight seal)...

TECH TIP: "If you cannot remove the thermostat, JUST LEAVE IT IN!!! THE DURA-SEAL SEALER WILL WORK WITH OR WITHOUT THE THERMOSTAT IN PLACE. If you DO leave it in, after draining all fluids as directed in "Step-2", reconnect lower-hose, refill system with clean water, idle engine for 15 minutes, then allow to cool and re-drain a second time. You may need to do this a few times to get all the old coolant out of the system as the thermostat will slow the draining and flushing of the system. Then, move on to "Step-3".

STEP 3. If you purchased a Dura-Seal Coolant Flush Agent, add now and follow the directions on the back of the bottle, if you do not have the flush agent, begin "Step-4" now.
Thermostat Housing
Thermostat Housing
Water Pump Housing
Water Pump Housing
Lower Radiator Hose Is Connected To The Water Pump
Upper Radiator Hose Is Connected To Thermostat
Cadillac Northstar Engine
Water Pump Housing
*Follow Lower Radiator Hose To Engine. It Is Connected To Thermostat Housing
Thermostat Housing, *Down and on Left-Side
Thermostat Housing, *Towards
Bottom of Engine and on Left-Side

Thermostat Housing
Thermostat Housing
Upper Radiator Hose Is Connected To Thermostat
Upper Radiator Hose Is Connected To Thermostat
Cadillac Northstar Engine
*Most other vehicles brands, simply follow upper-radiator hose to thermostat housing located at the top of the engine. Some Ford and Chrysler engines will have a plastic thermostat housing located towards the end of the upper radiator house just a few inches before contacting the engine block. Some BMW's and Land Rover's have an encapsulated thermostat housing which cannot be removed during the Dura-Seal repair process, so just leave it in. *Always drain your coolant system using the bottom-radiator hose... the drain plug takes to long. **Leaving the thermostat "in" will slow the repair process by restricting the flow. If you can, remove it for the repair process and reinstall when finished. If you cannot remove it, just leave it in, the Dura-Seal will still work very well...
*Some Chevy/Pontiac/GM engines will have the thermostat housing located on the top, driver-side of the engine under the exhaust cross-over. Just remove the cross-over to easily excess the housing. Or just leave the thermostat "in" during the Duar-Seal repair...
TECH-TIP: "If the engine was allowing water to get into the engine oil or oil into the coolant system always be sure to change the oil before you start the coolant-side repair process (always do the "coolant-side" repair first then change the oil and add the Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak to the new oil). Also after you finish the coolant-side repair and you are sure you have a full seal and your symptoms have all gone away, be sure to change your oil again (as it may have gotten contaminated again during the repair process), and then add the Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak to the new fresh oil."

STEP 4. O.K., Let's add the Dura-Seal Sealer and Dura-Seal Extreme Powder! Be sure to reconnect lower-hose and begin the repair process by pouring all Dura-Seal Head, Block or Intake Manifold Liquid Sealer contents included with your repair kit and entire packet(s) of Dura-Seal Extreme Powder Additive into your coolant system (It does not matter which product goes in first), via the radiator cap, (if you do not have a radiator cap) use the upper radiator hose. Simply disconnect upper-hose from the engine-side of the hose leaving it attached to the radiator. Next, completely fill the system with clean water, no coolant at this time. Replace radiator cap and/or hose. Again, it does not matter which product goes in first! Just add the Dura-Seal Sealer, Dura-Seal Extreme Powder, and fill with water until you cannot get any more water down the hose. Next, top off the over-flow tank with water.

STEP 5. Start the engine and turn the heater on "high", (If your heater doesn't work, don't worry, the Dura-Seal will still work!!! At least "turn it on" at the dashboard, it won't matter if it actually provides hot air into the cabin, we just want the switch turned-on). Now, let's start the run-cycles... Idle the engine for three 20 minute run-cycles with 20 minute cool-downs between them, (example; 20 minutes-on, 20 minutes-off). DO NOT DRAIN THE DURA-SEAL OUT DURING THE RUN CYCLES, WAIT UNTIL YOU HAVE A FULL SEAL! If the engine begins to overheat, turn off engine and allow to cool then start it back-up and continue any remaining time left on that run cycle, allow the 20 minute cool-down then start the next run-cycle. NOTE: Cadillac Northstar engines normally operate up to 235 degrees before the fans are programmed to start running, so don't worry if it gets up there. Only turn a Northstar off to let cool if it gets over 240 degrees during a run-cycle. Then, allow to cool and move on to next run cycle. When done with all run cycles, be sure vehicle is road worthy, safe to operate and drive for 15 minutes with sealer solution still in vehicle, do not exceed 45 MPH. If you still have symptoms like white smoke or coolant loss, add water if necessary and LEAVE THE SEALERS IN THE ENGINE FOR UP TO 48 HOURS! DURING THIS 48 HOURS GIVE THE ENGINE MORE RUN-CYCLES AND SHORT DISTANCE DRIVES UP TO 5 MILES EACH DRIVE!!! Symptoms should go away, *IF THEY STILL PERSIST CALL CUSTOMER SERVICE MON - FRI. 9-5PM EST. 706-400-0067 FOR ANOTHER STRONGER APPLICATION.

TECH-TIP: "If the head gasket is not fully sealing by the time you come back from the 15 minute drive, you can leave the sealer in the system up to 48 hours and continue to give it run-cycles and short distance drives up to 5 miles at a time during the 48 hours.. before calling Custom Service for another stronger treatment."

STEP 6. When finished with "Step-5", whether or-not all symptoms are gone! let engine cool down and drain-out all used sealer solution/water out of the system following Step#2 listed above. (Remember, if you left the thermostat in during the repair, you MUST refill with clean water, idle 15 minutes and re-drain that second time as stated in "Step-2" to get all the sealer out of the system). Next, disconnect "upper" and "lower" hoses and allow your system to air-dry for at least 4 hours, or overnight is ok too! Then, reinstall your thermostat. If no freezing weather exists refill system with just water, if outside air is freezing, be sure to use antifreeze. Take vehicle for test drive to check the seal, thermostat should be in at this time. If you have a full 100% seal, you can add coolant/antifreeze to system later that day if needed. *If you do not have a full seal, simply call Dura-Seal customer service Mon.-Fri. 9am. to 5pm. EST (706) 400-0067 to receive another application, as some vehicles may require another treatment to fully seal the leak. *NOTE: Additional treatments are custom made at our facility to be stronger then your last treatment…

STEP 7. Add the Dura-Seal Liquid-Ice additive ONLY if you are sure you have full seal, (meaning that all your engine symptoms have gone away, like: overheating, pressurization, and/or coolant loss), and it has been at least 48 hours since draining the Dura-Seal out and filling with new coolant.

TECH-TIP: "If engine was allowing water into the engine oil or oil into the coolant always be sure to change the oil before you start the coolant-side repair process, (as it is not advisable to run the engine with water in the oil). Always do the "coolant-side" repair first then treat the oil-side with our Oil Stop Leak.
3. & 4. DURA-SEAL TRANSMISSION STOP LEAK

TRANSMISSION OIL LEAKS/ As the transmission get old so do the seals! they start to shrink because they lose their silicone content. When they shrink enough, they start to allow transmission oil to bypass their seals. If your vehicle is losing transmission oil externally (onto the ground) you have a transmission oil leak. The Dura-Seal Hi-Strength Transmission Stop Leak works on all internal and external transmission seals! *This Transmission Stop Leak can be purchased online or by phone...

TRANSMISSION SHUTTER STOP/ This is a special order item! and must be order by phone as we customize the normal transmission sealer (listed above) into a shutter stop formula. As transmission get old they can start to shift hard and even cause the vehicle to shutter. The Dura-Seal Hi-Strength Transmission Shutter Stop works to stop the shutter and helps smooth hard shifting. *Be sure to order our "Shutter Stop" over the phone as we need to custom mix the Shutter Stop for you... Call 706-400-0067 9-5pm EST. M-Fri.

DURA-SEAL TRANSMISSION STOP LEAK INSTRUCTIONS/

STEP 1. Shake well before using. Pour contents of bottle into transmission. Drive vehicle for 20 minutes. You may then shut-down engine and allow to cool for at least 20 minutes before using the vehicle as normal. It will take up to 150 miles for the leak to stop and a complete seal is achieved.
5. DURA-SEAL ENGINE BLOCK SEALER
Engine Block/ Freeze Plug Leaks

ENGINE BLOCK SEALER/ NOTE: Dura-Seal Engine Block Sealer is for all 4 to 8 cylinder engines! Works with all water-cooled engines. This Block Sealer is formulated to seal "coolant-side" leaks in all engine blocks, freeze plugs, etc. Not for head gasket repairs due to curing temperature difference... THIS IS A NON WATER-GLASS BASED SEALER, SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT CLOGGING YOUR ENGINE WITH THIS DURA-SEAL ENGINE BLOCK SEALER!!!
TECH-TIP: "This is a "leave-in" sealer, so it's very easy to use. Just pour and go..."

DURA-SEAL ENGINE BLOCK SEALER INSTRUCTIONS/

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
STEP 1. Shake well before using.
Pour contents of bottle into coolant system. You can use the over-flow tank if you do not have a radiator cap. Allow engine to idle for at least 20 minutes before using the vehicle as normal. It will take up to 175 miles for the leak to stop and a complete seal is achieved. *
You do not have to remove this sealer from your system after use. It's a "Leave-in Sealer"... Not for head gasket repairs due to curing temperature difference...






6. DURA-SEAL ENGINE HUSH
Engine Noise

ENGINE NOISE/ The most common reason for excessive engine noise is simply, as engines get older and accumulate more mileage, the space between the engine's lifters and cams become wider from wear. As this occurs the sound from the cam striking the lifters gets louder and louder. Another area which can cause unwanted engine noise is the engine crank and bearings.
TECH-TIP: "The Dura-Seal Engine Hush additive is a easy and cost affective way to hush those loud engine parts..."
TECH-TIP: "The Dura-Seal Engine Hush additive cannot hurt your engine"

DURA-SEAL ENGINE HUSH INSTRUCTIONS/

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

STEP 1. Pour contents of bottle into engine oil, oil slump or crank case. Start engine or equipment and allow to run at idle for 20 minutes. You may then shut-down engine and allow to cool for at least 20 minutes before using the vehicle. It will take up to 150 miles for the additive to work. Each time you use the vehicle the engine noise will get better and better.





7. DURA-SEAL SMOKE STOPPER
Engine Smoke
Problem & Symptoms:

ENGINE SMOKE/ The most common reason for excessive engine smoke from the exhaust is the piston rings, where-as engine oil can by-pass the rings and enter the combustion center and be burned with the fuel and sent out the exhaust system in the form of black smoke.
TECH-TIP: "The Dura-Seal Smoke Stopper additive is a easy and cost affective way to et rid of the black smoke from the exhaust..."
TECH-TIP: "The Dura-Seal Smoke Stopper additive cannot hurt your engine"

DURA-SEAL SMOKE STOPPER INSTRUCTIONS/

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:

STEP 1. Pour contents of bottle into engine oil, oil slump or crank case. Start engine or equipment and allow to run at idle for 20 minutes. You may then shut-down engine and allow to cool for at least 20 minutes before using the vehicle. It will take up to 150 miles for the additive to work. Each time you use the vehicle the engine smoke will lessen.
8. How does Dura-Seal® compare to others?

It's simple, it doesn't compare… Dura-Seal is literally in a league of it's own be cause, Dura-Seal is the only available liquid head gasket sealer which does not use "water-glass" as a main ingredient. Since we don't use "water-glass" our Dura-Seal Head Gasket Sealer actually stays flexible and because of that flexibility you can use our Dura-Seal with any engine that has aluminum heads or blocks (like Cadillac Northstar, Subaru, BMW, Mercedes, Audi, etc). Also, since our sealer stays flexible and cannot crack-off, most customers get over 4 years of repair life.
9. How to place an order with Dura-Seal®

It's simple, you can order right now online or simply call us Mon- Fri. 9-5pm EST. We can take your order and help answer any question you have. If you do not have a creditcard we accept prepaid credit cards also and bank debit cards which have a Visa or Mastercard logo. We do not accept paypal, checks, or c.o.d.

If you would like to track an order or get your shipment tracking number, simply give us a call. Our shipping department is available 9am. to 5pm. EST. Monday - Friday 706-400-0067. Our shipping team works hard to get your order packaged and on it's way the same day you order it (holidays and Sundays excluded, orders received on Saturdays, after 12pm, Sundays and holidays will be shipped next business day).

 *All orders are shipped via USPS 2 -3 Day Priority Postal Mail... (even if it reads "custom shipping" in our shopping cart during your checkout.
* If you need our products
faster then 2 -3 Day Priority Postal Mail, You must call Customer Service directly; 706-400-0067 and place your order over the phone and request "Overnight Service" at an additional expense. Deadline for "Overnight Service" is 2:00pm EST Mon. - Fri.

We make every attempt to maintain the lowest prices on our items and all up to date prices are shown on our site. There are never any surprises or price changes once your order is placed. We accept Visa, MasterCard, Amex and Discover creditcards online and/or via telephone. Our website security is just as important to us as it is to you. So you can rest assure our shopping cart is SSL Certified.

USING OUR PRODUCTS
: All our products come with complete easy to understand instructions. If your purchasing a DuraSeal Head Gasket Repair Sealer Kit, detailed instructions will accompany your order. Plus our Automotive Tech's are available Mon -Fri. 9am to 6pm EST at: 706-400-0897.

10. More "audio"information about Dura-Seal®

If you would like to listen to pre-recorded "audio" information about our Dura-Seal products, hear additional Tech-Tips and more simply click on the links below... (make sure your speakers are "on" and your volume is "up"...)

PLAY AUDIO #1          
 PLAY AUDIO #2         
  PLAY AUDIO #3         
   PLAY AUDIO #4


These "audio" files are great pieces of information and will answer other questions you you may have. Each "audio" file is about 1 minute long and safe to download, if your computer asks you permission to open the file, click "Allow" or "Yes" to hear it...

If you still have questions, please feel free to call us;
Monday-Friday 9am. to 5pm. EST. TECH DEPT: 706-400-0897 OR 706-400-0067...

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SALES & TECH: (706) 400-0897
CUSTOMER SERVICE / TRACKING: (706) 400-0067

Worlds Most Trusted Head Gasket Sealers - We Custom Formulate Your Sealer The Same Day You Order It - Typical Repair Life Up To Five Years - Fast & Easy Repairs - Worlds Most Trusted Head Gasket Sealers - We Custom Formulate Your Sealer The Same Day You Order It - Typical Repair Life Up To Five Years - Fast & Easy Repairs -Worlds Most Trusted Head Gasket Sealers - We Custom Formulate Your Sealer The Same Day You Order It - Typical Repair Life Up To Five Years - Fast & Easy Repairs - Worlds Most Trusted Head Gasket Sealers - We Custom Formulate Your Sealer The Same Day You Order It - Typical Repair Life Up To Five Years - Fast & Easy Repairs - Worlds Most Trusted Head Gasket Sealers - We Custom Formulate Your Sealer The Same Day You Order It - Typical Repair Life Up To Five Years - Fast & Easy Repairs
Also after you finish the coolant-side repair and you are sure you have a full seal and your symptoms have all gone away, be sure to change your oil again (as it may have gotten contaminated again during the repair process), and then add the Dura-Seal Oil Stop Leak to the new fresh oil." If you did not purchase the oil Stop Leak call Customer Service; 706-400-0067 and order a bottle.
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your "Engine Specific" formula

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TECH-TIP: "You do not have to drive the vehicle 150 miles non-stop!!! If it takes you several days to reach the 150 mile mark that's fine..."
TECH-TIP: "You do not have to drive the vehicle 150 miles non-stop!!! If it takes you several days to reach the 150 mile mark that's fine..."
Click above to buy
Transmission Stop Leak

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TECH-TIP: "You do not have to drive the vehicle 175 miles non-stop!!! If it takes you several days to reach the 150 mile mark that's fine... just keep an eye on the water level and add some if needed."
Click above to buy Engine Block Sealer
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TECH-TIP: "You do not have to drive the vehicle 150 miles non-stop!!! If it takes you several days to reach the 150 mile mark that's fine...
Click above to buy Engine Block Sealer
Shop & Buy Now
TECH-TIP: "You do not have to drive the vehicle 150 miles non-stop!!! If it takes you several days to reach the 150 mile mark that's fine...
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What does that mean to you? With Dura-Seal you can actually repair head gaskets on vehicles with aluminum cylinder heads and blocks. All other brands from Barz to Bl_ue Devil (*actual names of certain brands have been altered) are "water-glass" based and simply crack right off aluminum engine components. Why? It's simple, This is due to aluminum expanding and contracting 33% more than steel during normal heat-up and cool-down. Even other brands like Steal Seel and Thermoogazket are nothing but "water-glass" and crack-off aluminum. Only Dura-Seal is different, only Dura-Seal is better…
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